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Written by: Dan Musyoki, Local Expert
Millions of years ago, a volcano erupted in the highlands of Tanzania, creating the largest caldera on earth, now called Ngorongoro Crater which abuts Serengeti National Park and the Masai Mara. Some say that before the volcanic eruption, Ngorongoro would have been taller than Mt Kilimanjaro, the highest peak in Africa.
Now dormant, the crater is home to millions of animals, and serves as a wildlife mecca where visitors can enjoy safaris in search of the Big Five. The crater’s 1,968-foot-high walls protect the animals and help them flourish. Three million years old, the ancient caldera was host to one of the most beautiful wildlife sanctuaries on earth as well as an astonishing array of landscapes encompassing forests, peaks, valleys, lakes, rivers and plains. Also here is the world-famous Olduvai Gorge, where some of man’s earliest ancestors once lived.
Few African game parks can lay claim to having all the Big Five, namely bush elephant, cape buffalo, leopard, lion and black rhino. But Ngorongoro Crater can! The crater is without a doubt the best place in Tanzania to see critically endangered black rhino, which have all been fitted with a tracking device in their horns to monitor their movements and to discourage poachers.
This endangered species tends to roam between the Lerai Forest and Lake Magadi and while they are dangerous animals, visitors are protected by their experienced safari guide. Wildebeest, zebra, eland and gazelle wander the grassy plains also, while lion, cheetah, wild dog and hyena keep watch for the chance to attack their prey. Elephant, eland, and hartebeest also make their home in the crater while hippo can be spotted in the permanent freshwater pools and the swamps in the crater, the world’s largest caldera.
There are, however, no giraffe present in the crater due to the steep descent. For birders, there are over 500 bird species recorded inside the crater – more bird species than the Serengeti. These species range from common birds to migratory birds.

Ngorongoro crater is one of the most densely populated conservation areas in Africa with over 25,000 animals living in the crater. The crater, is in fact, located within the Ngorongoro Conservation Area which was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its biodiversity and the density of its wildlife.
The Ngorongoro Conservation Area spans vast expanses of highland plains, savanna woodlands and forests, from Serengeti National Park to the Great Rift Valley, with wildlife coexisting alongside semi-nomadic Masai pastoralists who practice traditional livestock grazing. The only human settlement within the crater belongs to the Masai; this is permitted due to their peaceful way of life which involves herding cattle as opposed to hunting.
The stunning geography of Ngorongoro Crater, combined with its incredible concentration of wildlife, is one of the greatest natural wonders on earth and certainly one of the highlights of any visit to East Africa.

Animals in the crater are attracted by the green, lush grass that is on the cliffs and walls of the crater. It is even believed that some animals may have fallen into the crater rim and became trapped, since the area was once a migratory corridor. Once they fell in, they could not get out, so they just stayed and multiplied within the crater. Wildlife was also initially attracted to the fresh and alkaline water on the crater lakes, including lush vegetation there which especially attracts black rhino.
The fever-tree forest at Lerai, the shallow saline Lake Magadi, the reed-bordered Gorigor Swamp, and a hippo pool fed by Ngoitokitok Springs are all important habitats within the crater floor. In addition, the wide-open grasslands feed grazing antelopes, mainly blue wildebeest and Burchell’s zebra, Thomson’s gazelle, Grant’s gazelle, and the topi and Coke’s hartebeest. Other antelopes include the Defassa waterbuck, the bushbuck, and the eland.
Most wild animals live year round in the 100 square mile crater as it is difficult to get out due to the steep crater walls. For the most part, though, animals have no reason to leave this natural wonderland where they are protected and where food is abundant. Often called “The Garden of Eden,” Ngorongoro is a haven for African wildlife species of all kinds.
An interesting factoid is that a side effect of the crater being a natural enclosure is that the lion population there is significantly inbred. This is due to the small number of new bloodlines that enter the local gene pool, as few male lions enter the crater from the outside. Those who do enter are frequently prevented from contributing to the gene pool by the crater’s already established male lions, who expel outside competitors.
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